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SIZES: Directions are for Size 14. Changes for sizes 16, 18 and 20 are in parentheses.
MATERIALS: Penguin Alpin-3, 13 (14-15-15) 1 oz. balls Mimosa (yellow); 2 balls Moredore (brown) for braid trim. Susan Battes knitting needles No. 2 (standard) English size 11, Steel crochet hook No. 2; 7″ slide fastener
GAUGE: 8 sts=1″; 11 rows=1″
FRONT: Cast on 136 (144-152-160) stitches. Work even in reverse stockinette stitch (p1 row, k1 row) for 2″. Dec 1 st each side of every 6th row 8 times. 120 (128-136-144) sts. Work even until 6 1/2″ (6 3/4″ – 7″ – 7 1/4″) from start. Increase 1 st each side every 6th row 8 times; 136 (144-152-160) sts. Work even until 12″ (12 1/2″ – 13″ – 13 1/2″) from start.
Underarm: Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 4 times. Sl remaining 128 (136-144-152) sts on a holder.
LEFT SLEEVE SECTION: Starting at the wrist, cast on 3 sts, k 1 row, work in reverse stockinette st, inc 1 st at outer edge every row (beg of p rows and end of k rows), and inc 1 st at inner edge every other row (end of p rows) until 33 (35-37-39) sts. Still increasing 1 st at inner edge every other row as before at outer edge dec 1 st every 4th row 25 (26-27-28) times; 58 (61-64-67) its.
Underarm: Still decreasing 1 st at outer edge every 4th row 5 times more, work inner edge even. Slip remaining 53 (56-59-62) sts on a holder.
RIGHT SLEEVE: Work to correspond reversing shaping; outer edge is end of p rows.
YOKE: Place all 3 sections on needle with sleeves on each side of front and underarms meeting; 234 (248-262-276) sts. Dec 1 st each side every other row 21 (23-25-27) times; 192 (202-212-222)sts. Dec 1 st each side every row 26 (28-30-32)times; 140 (146-152-158)sts, end p row.
Shape Shoulder and Neck: Bind off 3 sts, work across until 57 (59-61-63)sts, sl these sts on a holder; bind off 20 (22-24-26)sts, work last 60 (62-64-66)sts. Bind off 3 sts at beg of next row and dec 1 st at neck edge. Repeat dec at neck edge every tow 4 times more, then every other row 5 times : at the same time, bind off 3 its at beg of arm side 9 times, 4 sts 3 times, 4 (5-6-7) sts twice. Join yarn at neck edge, dec 1 st and work other side to correspond (start with repeat dec at neck edge).
BACK: Work same as front until sleeves have been joined: 234 (248-262-276) sts. Dec 1 st each side every other row 15 (18-21-24) times; 204 (212-220-276) sts. Sl a marker at the center back. Working 3 sts each side of marker in garter st border, dec 1 st each arm side, as before, every other row 6 (5-4-3) times more, then every row 2 (3-4-5) times; 188 (196-204-212) sts.
Back opening: Work to marker; sl remaining sts on a holder. Working on one side only, keep the 3 its at the center in garter st and dec 1 st at arm side on every row 24 (25-26-27) times more; 70 (73-76-79) sts.
Shape Shoulder: Bind off 3 sts at beg of arm side 10 times, 4 sts times, then 4 (5-6-7)sts twice. Bind off remaining 20 (21-22-23) sts for back of neck. Join yarn at opening and work other side to correspond.
UNDERARM INSETS (Make 2): Cast on 3 sts. Work in reverse stockinette st; inc 1 st at beg of every row until 25 sts. Dec 1st at begnof every row until 3 its remain. Bind off.
FINISHING: Press pieces carefully, Seam sides and sleeves to underarms. Insert underarm sections with the widest part at joining of sleeves and tips meeting seams. Make 2 darts each on front and back at waistline, about 3 1/2″ in from side seams., taking in waist to fit snugly, tapering dart to nothing 3″ above and 3″ below waistline. Make a hem at wrist and 1″ hem around lower edge of blouse.
COLLAR: Cast on 3 sts. Work in reverse stockinette st, inc 1 st at beg of every row until 30 sts. Inc 1 st at the beg and dec 1 st at end of every other row until short edge is about 1/2″ longer than neck edge. Dec 1 st ar end of every row until 3 sts remain. Bind off. Press collar. Turn in and hem each end, then hem long edges, reducing width of collar to 1 1/2″. Sew on collar, with top of collar extending 3/4″ above neck edge. Sew in slide fastener.
BRAID: With brown and crochet hook, make a chain about 1 1/2 times longer than desired finished length for each section; sc in 11th ch from hook, *ch 5, sk 5 ch, sl st in next ch repeat from * until desired lengths allowing 1 ch-5 lp for each 3/4″ of trim. Working along one side, make 9 sc in each ch-5 lp, 18 sc in end lp; working back along other side, *sc tightly over joining between lps, drawing edges together; make 9 sc in next lp, rep from * across. End off.
FINISHING: Make and sew a braid around venter of collar, one around each wrist 1″ above edge, and one around lower edge at top of hem. Starting at the base of the collar on front, make and sew braid straight down to center of one dart, around back of waist to center of other front dart and straight up the other side to base of collar. Following curve of front shoulder seam, make and sew braid from base of collar, where front trimming was started, to wrist-band on each front sleeve. Make and sew a braid on back of each sleeve om same manner, having braid same distance from shoulder seam as on front. Press blouse lightly with a damp cloth and medium hot iron, being careful not to flatten braid.